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We do not stock or directly sell hardware or plumbing parts. Our articles reference specific part numbers and standard trade brands (like Moen, Delta, Kohler, and American Standard) so you can easily source them from local hardware stores or authorized distributors.

In single-handle shower valves, a continuous drip from the shower head almost always indicates a worn internal cartridge or failed rubber O-rings/grommets. Over time, mineral buildup and friction degrade the seal, allowing pressurized water to seep past the valve seat into the shower riser pipe.

If there is no visible manufacturer logo stamped on the trim plate or handle, you can typically identify the valve by removing the handle and inspecting the stem broach (the splined tip where the handle attaches). The number of spline teeth, the shape of the cartridge body (brass vs. plastic), and the retaining clip style are distinct across major manufacturers.

This is commonly caused by an outdated non-balancing valve or a failed pressure-balancing spool inside modern valves. Modern shower valves include a pressure-balancing mechanism that automatically shifts to reduce hot water flow when a sudden drop in cold water pressure occurs. If that balancing spool becomes stuck with sediment, temperature swings become severe.

If other faucets in the home have normal pressure, the restriction is localized. The most common culprits are mineral deposits clogging the fine spray nozzles of the shower head, a partially clogged flow restrictor, or a calcified shower valve cartridge restricting flow through the mixing chamber.

Replacing a shower cartridge is a manageable DIY job for many homeowners, provided you have the proper tools (screwdriver, hex keys, and sometimes a dedicated cartridge puller) and have completely shut off the main water supply beforehand. However, if a brass cartridge is seized or corroded in place, forcing it can distort the in-wall valve body and cause severe water leaks.

You should immediately call a professional if:

• You cannot shut off the water completely at the fixture or main shutoff valve;
• You suspect a water leak inside a wall cavity or subfloor;
• The repair requires torch soldering or altering copper/PEX pipe supply lines;
• The cartridge is frozen solid and risks twisting the in-wall plumbing lines.